Stik RCGF 10cc Piston Ring Installation and Revisiting the Single Needle RCGF Carb

The piston rings arrived and I installed one. Easy now that I have the right part. Here's how this went. I did solve the problem with the compression, but found the carb wouldn't send fuel to the cylinder. Bad carb.

The piston ring. There is a gap for installation. Note that it has angles at the ends.

On the piston head in the cleaned ring groove there is a notch. Find it. Its where the opening in the ring goes. Locate it. When cleaning the groove don't damage it.

When the ring is compressed in the cylinder head the two angled ends come together under the notcch in the cylinder head.

Installed. Note the notch and the opening in the ring matched up. The ring slips easily over the piston head into the groove lining up the opening with the notch.

The compressed ring at the notch. Hold this together and work the cylinder head over the piston. It may take a few tries. Start in back opposite the ring notch.

Remember the gasket before you slip the cylinder head on... I grease mine very lightly.

Screw the cylinder head on gorilla tight. Don't strip the screw heads.

Apply the RCGF Logo!

Nice compression!

I spent over an hour trying to get the motor to start. At first she would run a second choked, but only a second with the choke opened. If I put fuel directly in the air intake of the carb she wpuld run a few seconds. So the cylinder works, its just not getting fuel. Fuel is in the lines to the carb. Something is wrong with the carb.

I took the carb apart. It was full of fuel... everything looks fine. I am at a loss now as to what to do next. I guess I will try changing the carb. Maybe I will try the single needle carb...

UPDATE: This evening, for giggles, I installed the single needle carb. I had taken it apart, so first had to put it back together. I have no idea what the factory setting is for the needle. I think I remember I only adjust the tiny needle in the middle, not the big brass housing. It was dry and the engine can't draw vacuum sufficient to dry start it (a problem that doomed it, so now it comes with a Walboro carb). I figured out how to get fuel into the system and got her to start. But the settings are all wrong, so she starts at mid throttle, quits at full and at idle. I have an email in to Joe Nelson at RCGF USA about the factory settings and may try to get it to run. If I decide to use it, I will have to completely reconfigure the throttle servo and linkage, as the Walboro's comes out underneath and the sRCGF carb connects on top as installed. I am going to try to figure out what is wrong with the Walboro, but may need to send it or buy a new one.

The original RCGF Single Needle Carb installed. 

Bottom (top, installed). The throttle lever would have been on top instead of where the servo comes out on the bottom of the fuse. There was no point to keeping it installed, especially after what I discovered  (see below video).

Recorded during the first good start. Trying to tune it I only made it worse. It will only start at precisely half throttle, will speed up at 3/4 almost full, but quit at full, and anything less than half.

UPDATE (8/2/18): Well, this is interesting. I am surprised the engine ran at all! I was removing the single needle carb and reinstalling the original but now completely deconstructed and rebuilt Walboro carb when I went to plug the vacuum nipple on the cylinder that the remote fuel pump for the single carb needs. I saw that tis plugged INTERNALLY. I had completely forgotten I had poured solder into it to completely close it off. Somehow the pump worked, sort of, without vacuum. This may be why it ran oddly and could not be tuned.

The brass penis thingy coming off the base of the cylinder is the vacuum nipple for the single needle fuel pump.