Sbach Evolution 10cc running and flyable

The Evolution 10cc on the Sbach has been a challenge. Recent over haul damaged an O-ring on the low needle which has two of them, none to be found anywhere, but Horizon Hobby found a carb set and sent them to me! I replaced the damaged O-ring, and set about tuning the needles. Idle is best achievable, pretty much at stock settings, Low 4-1/4 and Hi at 2 (stock 2-1/4).

Idles good, nice acceleration, good high RPM. The pull back to idle is slow. This usually indicates a rich Hi needle, but leaning it doesn't improve it. 

She still spits a LOT of oil... at 40:1.

Looking forward to taking her to the field so it can go wonky again. I'll put the cowl on guaranteeing it will.

I like the look of wheel pants, but at grass fields they take a beating. I have 3 planes with them still. I removed  repaired, repainted and reinstalled the Sbachs pants.

HK500 FBL is ready!

Got the HK500 FBL programmed into the iX12, made a few adjustments and took her out for  hover test. Ready to go! Time to head out and crash her!

Stik long running aileron spasm problem solved!

I have written a couple of times about my long running issue with the ailerons on the Stik going rogue and spasming at WOT. They would move like crazy and sometimes lock up in a hard roll. A few weeks back an intense uncommanded high speed snap roll resulted. Last time I took her out to the field she did it, and I grounded her. 

I had read on an RC crash site on Facebook that a plane had uncommanded aileron roll to the site of the crash that was fixed by balancing the prop and padding the receiver against vibration. Since I have tried everything, changing leads, torrid, changed servos, changed the ignition, and eventually the receiver. Nothing worked, so I decided to try the balance and protect. The prop did need balancing, and I padded the receiver with a gel pad and foam around the receiver. Today I took her out:

Problem solved! Wow... 

Working out the bugs

And there have been bugs...

Having gotten the settings on the RCGF-USA 26cc where they seem to want to be, she still runs a bit 4-cycling at WOT, but there is power aplenty and she runs o/w smooth, with a reliable and usable idle. Since I am going to check the balance on the Stik's prop I went ahead and checked this one, and lo, she needed some balancing. I suspect the painted tips have worn a bit. Not sure what difference is made, but I do think it is important.

As illustrated, possibly, here. I had read in an FB post about a plane lost due to vibrations in an unbalanced prop creating a signal that caused an un-commanded fixed roll to the site of the crash. I have had this problem with the Stik where at WOT her ailerons would become possessed and endure paroxysms of movement, then locking in a hard roll, and once in flight one helluva snap roll had resulted. It only happens at WOT. I have put torrids on everything, changed the ignition, changed the servos, changed the servo leads from the receiver, and recently changed the receiver, but the problem remains. Having read this, I balanced the prop, and she did need a couple of micrograms of balancing. The prop is clean and properly balanced. Next time I take her out I will let you know how this works out.

They also mentioned heavily padding the receiver from vibrations, so I took my last piece of gel padding (I used to use this on heli gyros, not sure it helped), and placed it between the fuse and the receiver.

Suspended there.

Surrounded by a foam cover-all. This is about as isolated from vibration as I am going to be able to make it. All I need now is some cooperative weather.

Waste of Time: Take 2

Brisk winds. Brought out the Stik with its RCGF-USA 10cc, and the Pulse XT60 with its RCGF-USA 26cc. Both worked fine last week. Neither worked fine today. It took some tuning the 10cc, but that wicked un-commanded aileron movement occurred and was pretty constant at high RPM. I just read a story about a plane crash where the prop was out of balance and generated a vibration freq that caused this to happen. Hmm.... will be checking the balance of the props.

I even had my son Luke with me to video... but alas, nothing flying today. The Pulse was not running right since getting her muffler tightened, and part of it was the fuel lines kinking. I knew this might be a problem at some point and it was today. And to boot, the screw that secures the spinner stripped. Grounded.

Got her home, fixed the fuel system redoing all the lines and making it a 3 tube system so that the engine gets its fuel directly. A new spinner screw was all it took to solve that problem. This all took about an hour or so. I was not in the mood for further foolishness so called it a day. Tomorrow will be too windy to fly, so I will once again tune the engine and get the cowl back on.

Same as yesterday, another waste of time.

UPDATE (5/28/2020):  I took the plane out to the backyard bench and ran it up. Took about an hour to find decent settings. Still 4-cycles a bit at WOT, but now it has great RPM and Idle. I'll put the cowl back on, and next time I go out taker her with me to be disappointed again. There has to be something I have lost in tuning my engines for this to keep happening.

Well, that was a waste of time.

It began with having to solve a cat problem... Move one, the other two show up.

First flight with the Twinstar and her new nose gear went fine!

Started the Pulse XT60 RCGF-USA 26cc, and noticed the muffler shaking again, loose. Started to remove the engine to fix it, but without my bench tools it was going to be a painful and long process. Screw it, will fix it at home. Put her back in the car.

Second flight landing and the nose gear did not bend, but broke the forward bulkhead off. I saw this coming.

Quite the angle there.

Keith and Jason were tooling about, walked over before I left to say hi!

Spinner off, prop off, cowl off, engine off. Used J-B Weld as a gasket sealant and as a Locktite, having read it as a fix for this, and having it on hand. Sucker is snug. I also found a couple of lock washers, for whatever difference they make. I also found the throttle control arm nearly off, it's set screw held there by the choke arm! Jeez, this thing is shaking everything off. Standard blue Locktite, tight as I could make it. Engine back on, cowl back on, prop back on, spinner back on. Check pak charge. Ready to try again tomorrow. Really wasted time at the field.

Put the Twinstar aside in the shop, not in the mood for its foolishness. 

Think I need a second plane for tomorrow, since the helis are grounded until Spektrum fixes the software issue with heli DR/Expo. Hmmm... probably the Stik!

iX12 Power Hobby Skinned

I like color, and I wanted a yellow or green iX12, but by the time I got around to buying one the red and black were all that were offered. I had seen these Spektrum transmitter skins from Power Hobby before, but my Gen 1 DX8 wasn't supported. A few days ago I saw a post about them and I thought about them again. I went looking for one for my iX12. I picked out this one, the Power Hobby Red Honeycomb Spektrum iX12 skin. They have several different  designs for several transmitters, check the iX12 ones out.

They are a soft vinyl sticker, thick and sturdy, quite sticky, but easier to handle than I feared. It came in a nice cardboard protector. No instructions, but it was fairly self evident. I wasn't sure about the two narrow pieces on the sides at the "handles", but found they fit nicely along the sides of the rise around the button and strap holder. I especially liked the corner cuts around the screen.  Step by step, below:

They are thick enough that they are easy to handle, and to keep from sticking to each other. They are an amazingly good fit. The only two I had trouble with was the iX12 logo at the top, it was just a hair big and I damaged it trying to Xacto the edge, and the red one around the upper right switches, it didn't want to lay right and I think I had stretched it a little placing it. I managed to smooth it out. I used a Q-tip swab, and a spilt coffee stirrer stick, to push it into place and set it. Xacto a little along the left rubber handle. When I was done I hit it lightly with a heat gun, careful, it melts fast, but tucked in nicely!

It looks nice! It's not going to look painted, but it comes pretty darn close. I am impressed how snug the tolerances. I am pleased with it! I plan to fill in any gaps in dark with a Sharpe. I like the splash of color and pattern! I recommend trying them out at this great price!