Cote Work Sucks

The weather was one of those dangerous days of beautiful skies, moderate temps, no winds, but variable 20 - 30 mph gusts that shook the trees like it hates them. So flying was a bust. I drove all the way out to the field, but my better judgment saved me from what surely would have been drama and tears. 

Decided to drop by Hobby Town in Londonderry, NH. It was half toy store, half Traxxas with some Eflite foamie crap (I hate foamies because aEflite stopped making amazing balsa planes that were affordable). No engines, all electric from what I could see. No nitro fuel for sale, no hobby wood, no cote. What a waste of time. The only other LHS, ABC Hobbies, which has been my go-to for over a decade, has bare shelves, but some quarts of 15% nitro/castor oil, and some wood, but it's gone feral a bit. They have maybe ten rolls of the least popular Ultracote colors (not their fault, apparently Horizon has difficulty getting it to other vendors, so no one has much). The owners are such good people, I hope they are not failing, as so many have.... This is probably one of the reasons the hobby is dying. Too expensive, and nothing for builders anymore.

So, I went home and I decided to try doing the cote work.

I started with the gray Monocote I have, on the bottom, just 1/4 panel on the fuse. But no matter what I did, how big or small the panel was, it just would not shrink, until it melted, even at low temps. After several attempts, I decided to stop, buy gray Ultracote, but found a brand new still wrapped in its plastic tube, in my cote bin! Still have no idea where that errant CA bottle went, but I found new cote. 

Now it shrank, but never evenly, and when when I got one part nice, the adjacent one loosened. I tried several times, tacking down the edges as best as I could, using my new heat gun at lower temps. It shrank, but never well, always some spot would re-wrinkle, and then the edges would melt. Frustrating. Shouldn't be this hard. People online do it exactly the same way and it's quick and easy. John does it it like he's turning pages in a book. I suck at this.  

Though, I did get the tail cote done, and that went well, but it's all solid, not cote over frame.

This is the only thing between me and flying the Morane, so it's starting to piss me off. I have stopped for now. I may try the wing, not a complex surface, so it may go better. We'll see. What I really want to do is go fly. That's annoying me too, matching days off with good flying conditions.

What a bummer day.

UPDATE: I went out to take pics of the tail and I just had to try the larger surface of the underside of the wing. And this happened....

The underside is done, and actually looks pretty damn good. Took half an hour and was rather painless. Now I am in a better mood. I don't know what to do about coting the fuel... I will try again, but I may end up getting John to help.

Morane Saulnier Type N Internals All Set

Serious winds and gusts made today another day off without flying. Sunday morning might be flyable, early am. Fingers crossed, but it might also be cote day for the Morane Saulnier Type N.

I spent today in the shop working on getting the internals all set and mocked up. All the fuel proofing dried, so that is done . 

The tank is in its final resting place. Foam under, and on the sides. I seem to have forgotten the small piece going on top... It will be held down by the wing. Velcro secures it along the bottom. The fuel fill line isn't there right now. The aluminium fuel plug I planned to use won't fit, and I think a better idea is a simple fuel line that will come out on top in front of the plastic top with an aluminum plug. More on that later. Won't be fancy but will be subtle and efficient, and will look nice. Still annoys me that I will have to be very careful filling the tank since I won't be able to see it when the wing is on. Plan to count the number of turns and watch the exhaust tank pressure line. I am sure to flood everything more frequently than helpful.

The battery will be velcroed in as shown. I had wanted it flat along the bottom of the fuse, it fits, but the tail end of the tank gets raised up and is then too high for the wing to set in. This will work fine. A small piece of foam on top will also allow the wing to keep it in place. BTW, I CA the Velcro in these places to ensure they don't pull loose by accident. I made a plate for the power switch. It's just set here, not screwed in, so it looks like it sticks out more than it will. It has an external lead plug to allow for charging. I will balance charge at home, and simple charge at the field, if needed. 

Installed the rudder and elevator control horns (forgot to get a pic), secured with M2 hex head screws and nylon lock nuts in addition to the nylon back side. They are very secure (lost my 30cc Pitts S12 to a failed elevator control horn on like it's second or third flight. That ain't happening again). I am using a ball joint at the tail end, and these swivel things (have no idea what they are called) on the servo ends. I had planned to put the Spektrum AR620 in with the battery, but this is much better as it won't be RF blocked. The cross bar there with the blind nuts is vestigial from the early plan to hardpoint the wing instead of rubber banding it. I am still kicking that idea around. The primary issue was how to really solidly secure the front plate for the pegs coming out of the front of the wing.

All that is left is the cote work, the usual final touches and gripe fixes. Really looking forward to starting the OS 46. Planning on a Master Airscrew 11x5 Scimitar prop. Cleaned the engine up, installed a new glow plug. It's really clean and looks ready to go. Wondering how it's going to fit in the plastic cowl... I did put a second coat of red on the plastic topper, had to sand some areas that cracked when drying. Curious as the primer was a week dry and clean. I have a great idea for securing the wing wire tower on top of it, stay tuned. I also need to install the bottom wire tower under the fuse.

On Sunday, we cote.

Still Avoiding The Cote Work ...

 An hour in the garage after work today, worked on the Morane.

I had run the tubes for the elevator and rudder, and today built a stabilizer for them to guide them to the center. They are nice and straight and X-cross near the back. I won't secure the back ends until I install the control rods, which I won't do until I install the control horns. Once I see how much play there is in the front of the tubes I can decide if I am going to secure them with epoxy.

I secured the throttle tube, though not in this picture, I cut the extra bit of tube off as it looked to restrict the forward range of motion. 

Also not pictured, I painted the firewall, fore and aft, black, and tomorrow will fuel proof it. I also installed a small table to support and secure the fuel tank (short piece of tongue depressor wood), and I installed the engine mount. I painted the first of two coats of red paint on the plastic topper. If needed a second coat to morrow, or the matte finish.

I am off tomorrow and it's a stormy day, so I plan to install the tank, battery and receiver, do the control horns and rods. Then it's time to buck up and start the cote work. My cutting compass arrived from Amazon yesterday, so I can make the rondels.

I also realized, after seeing John's heat gun,, that mine is a two temp industrial heat gun that is way too hot. I ordered this one on Amazon that allows temp control from 120F to 1200F. I will be waiting for it to arrive tomorrow before starting any cote work. Hope it arrives early!

More Morane Progress

Spent way too much time in the garage working on the Morane. Had planned on flying today, but wasn't feeling it, so stayed in the shop.

Tail is on. Ran the throttle control wire and it's sleeve down the starboard side instead of port. The cote is the melty stuff (Monokote) so the cote is a bit melt-wrinkly. The rudder cote is the same stuff, but it went on sweet. The elevator hinges, which dry fit perfectly, decided not to when the cote was on and made me dig to get them to pass. I was not in the mood for any hinge attitude when I got to the rudder, and it knew it. Behaved, went on fine. I also set up the sleeves for the rudder and elevator. I put the engine mount on. Backwards.  It's laying with the cylinder to starboard, and I ADHD'd the first install. Flipped it and redrilled, used two of the bad holes to pass the fuel line and the pressure line, so not bad for a fuck up. I also carved (dremel sanded) the slot in the top of the firewall surround to allow the high speed needle to be clear. I think the cylinder is going to be right up against the cowl or close. Will have to see. The quality of my work is not great, but it will do. I think I try to do too much with limited experience and skill. All said and done, the tail actually looks decent.

I also found out that rattle can paint is not nitro safe. In fact nitro is apparently a great way to remove paint. I have to paint the cowl and the top plastic parts. Went it's done I will need to drop $30 for 2K urethane matte clear coat. It's a special paint that is fuel proof. It come in a special can; you push a button on the bottom that mixes a hardener with the paint, so the can also has only half the volume, and lasts about a day then hardens in the can. It's always something. I wanted to matte the cote, so will probably spray everything when I am all done. That feels like a not good idea...   (The muffler is uunder the plane, so the top, and cowl, shouldn't be exposed to fuel. I may skip this).

I am not looking forward to doing the cote on the wing and the fuse after my ride on the cote struggle bus today, but I have to learn somehow. This will be Friday's project, since it will be way too windy. 

Falcon Wing Twisting and Morane Progress

Spent a few hours with John today to get help with a few things.

When I maidened the Falcon it had a strong right roll tendency, something quite challenging in 3-channel flight. Today he taught me how to twist a wing to bring it back into balance. The right wing needed to be twisted so that the trailing edge was down more as it was twisted a bit high (curious when measure it looked good, but there was a visible twist), causing a lift to correct the right roll. I am glad he did this for me as when I read his instructions I thought this was a more sever twisting. It was done with a few lead weights bags holding the wing, a slight twist in the correct position, as he ran the heat gun to tighten in the new twist. This is done on both sides and took very little pressure. Here I was imagining both my adult kids holding the wing and twisting it while I heated the cote...  It took a few cycles and now it looks quite balanced. Cannot wait to get it in the air again, as correction of this flaw will make this a great flyer!

I also picked up the tail I designed and he built for me, fitting it and setting up the hinging. He cut out the elevator slot in the rudder as well. This is going to be a beautiful plane.

He agreed that I needed to put a little slabbing on the front where the original builder has stopped building, to give the cote a good surface to adhere to. I also need to continue the rib in the front two sections. Port side

 

Starboard side 

He used an ultrasonic cutter (a specialized tool that of course an engineer who crafts rc planes at his skill level has) to remove the bulkhead that was behind the tank. Structurally it was unnecessary, and it was making positioning the fuel tank challenging. 

To that end we also decided to abandon the idea of hard pointing the wing. On one hand there was just no good way to do the front securely as it wasn't built for it, and it is a vintage model designed for rubber banding. There was also the decision, which for some reason I had not considered, to fix the plastic top to the wing permanently. This solve several other small design issues. So I will be going with rubber bands along each side (no criss-cross because I will be flying the plastic top to the top of the wing permanently. I am really happy with these decisions as it simplifies so much  BTW, I put a primer coat down on the plastic top. Darn it, forgot to also prime the cowl piece ...

The engine, when set to the firewall, sits so that the high speed needle and the cylinder head are hard up against the frame, as the firewall install inside the fuse. I also cut a 1/8" plywood backing the size of the Dave Brown round engine mount to bring it out a little to clear. I epoxied that to the firewall, which by the way has the "right-and-down" P-factor built in. I will need to drill access thru the plastic cowl to access the glow plug, but may have to make it much bigger to clear the cylinder head. I am installing the engine with the cylinder to starboard, exhaust straight down. This may change ... The plastic cowl has a large gap and I may rotate it to balance everything out. We'll have to see how it all fits first.

My next step will be to install the tail assembly, template out the cote work and do the cote (going olive drab), install the engine, control rods/sheaths/horns. I need to get a cutting compass to make rondels, and I have a great idea for the wing wires 

I really hope I do will with the cote work, because this will be a beautiful plane!

What a wonderful day full of maidens!

Finally caught a break with marvelous weather and manageable gusts on a day off. Flew the Stearman several flights, love that it has stabilization, and maidened the Goldberg Falcon and the long awaited Ultrastick! Only a few pics and didn't do any video (forgot the cam). 

One curious battery thin I have never seen before. Charged 4 3S 2200 mAh batteries at the same time (parallel? I can never remember). In all 4 batteries, one cell charged to only about 4v, the other full at 4.2v. This happened on all 4 batteries from the same charge. I decided not to fly with them so I didn't undevolt that one cell, ran them down on the bench while checking the voltage. At 3.8v on 2 cells, the third on was around 3.74v on each battery, so the gap narrowed. The IRs were all less than 6. They ran fine. I charged another set of 4, a different band, and they all charged normally. The affected batteries are about a year old. Curious if they won't charge properly again. Would be a bummer as in this eco no my I won't be replacing them anytime soon.

The gang is all here!

Little wheels and short nose make for easy flip over on landing when running into the clumpies at the end of the runway. The PT-19 flew like a charm! So love this plane. It's a shame Eflite moved away from these affordable balsa delights and sells overpriced foamies in their place.

The Falcon has flown, 4 flights. In the air 3-channel proved no problem for me to adjust to, just as John predicted. On the ground I kept trying to steer with the rudder instead of the ailerons. Of course I kept trying to coordinate my turns in the air. The Falcon has one issue that John is going to investigate. It has a constant hard right roll tendency that I had to control with left rudder. Wasn't able to trim it out with rudder in flight. The wing looks straight and not warped as far as I can tell, and the tail is straight.  The Irvine 40 runs like a dream, no issues at all and pulled some nice vertical. I tried the 11x5 Scimitar, and it flew great, but losing just that 1/2 inch of ground clearance lead to one prop stall on the lumpy Geotex. It flies so well on the 10x6, may just get some Master Airscrew Scimitars in that size, but I want some more flight time with the 11x5 first. One thing about nitro is that shit coats this wing thick. I have a muffler extender, chose not to fly with it, but I just might. Also need to bring paper towels.

The tail looks good, in this pic the right side of the main wing looks a bit higher, maybe that's it?  Maybe I do see a little warp, the ceiling edge on the right shows more underwing. I bet the wing does have a bit of warp and that would roll it right. The engine is rigged classic down and right so P-factor isn't an issue, and this roll tendency is constant. This made for challenging landings. Little dude is fast with both props. Once we get this roll tendency sorted, this will be a fun plane to fly!

I usually have bigger wheels on the Ultrastick, and am probably going back to them. Hit the taller grass and went right head over heels after a nice albeit floaty flaps landing. I am sooo happy with how it handled. Engine ran great, though it has a gravelly sound to combustion. This is the first time I have heard it without ear plugs. It was getting late what with all the waiting, I wanted another flight, but one of the leading edge wing pegs was a tad loose so I called it a day.  Overall all, I am very, very happy. I got used to it running a long ways out, though I hope getting my cataracts done improves my clarity of vision. I feel a lot more comfortable flying the 26cc Pulse XT60 and the 30cc Sbach here. I will probably overfly the parking lot at the business next door on landings with the big boys but no one is ever there.... The Evo 10cc ran great, though I did lean out the low needle a bit more. The idle improved (it was a bit untrustworthy today until I learned it) as did acceleration to FOT. Pretty sure a gasser is going with me every trip to the field.

I call this day a wonderful win!

Lot''s of Progress On The Morane Saulnier Type N

Started my day picking up the plastic parts for the Morane Saunier Type N at John's workshop where I was also able to float some ideas past him on the build. When I got back I got to work.

Mapped out the locations for the main components. I think this was built planned as an electric. The tank barely fits and when actually installed I will need to create a very small opening at the base of the firewall for the toe of the tank. The firewall will have the usual center large hole.

Started with a tray for the throttle servo, made from an aileron servo from a large gasser. We decided that a OS0.46 AXI/II with the muffler facing down and the cylinder head on the starboard side. Hoping it fits such that it will only need a hole for the igniter. May need a larger hole to protect the plastic of the cowl 

Dry fit the plastic top. I want a WW1 pilot in flying configuration with a 50mm or less base (I think 1/9 scale), but they are so hard to find let alone painted. I also want to install the scale triangle to attach the wing wires to. It would be easy to attach it to the plastic top, but this would require being able to easily attach the wires at the field. This is likely is what I will need to do, as the plastic top can't be secure to the wing as one piece. This may be complicated by fueling, though my plan is to run a line off the main fuel line with a 3-way filter (but how do I see how much fuel is in the tank?). This is in part because I hard-pointed the wing (see below). I created a latch mechanism to secure the front. I just decided to use thumbscrews to secure the back end. 

I wanted a more scale pseudo-scale appearance, part of which meant hard-pointed attaching the wing instead of using rubber bands. I installed pegs up front (John's recommendation). Since that are in front of the wing didn't have a cover, I made one, but since the tank is right underneath it I don't want to glue it in place. My problem is not being able to see the tank to tell when it's full. John may have a solution. 

Nice snug fit. You can see the screw holes in the aft section. I am going to use some CA to harden the balsa around the holes, and a small plastic strap to distribute the stress, along with rubber-backed washers for the dihedral.

View from the front, firewall is not installed. You can see the front latch for the plastic top.

This is what that latch will catch onto. Works great, allows the top to slide forward into position. It's CA'd but I will put a little epoxy around the attachments 

To make a snug fit I created a little padded arch to set against the front of the plastic top when in place. I'll update this post with a pick of the plastic top in place.

The screw hard-pointed aft. The arched cut-outs are so I can get to the aft servo screws when needed. I will put short vertical attachments on it for the thumbscrews. You can see the rudder-elevator servo "tray".

I nocked up the vertical stabilizer. I (we, can't do some fancy structural strengthening John suggests, that of course make sense), will need to make one. We will use solid 1/4 inch balsa with spruce running along to tops and bottoms for added strength. Will break scale with a small tail wheel. Not pictured is the elevator piece.

The mock up.

Once I get the engine (generous John is gifting me an OS 46. I need to find a 46 mount. I want to find the original round back low profile one, especially because the engine will be rotated 90°, but the adjustable Du-Bro may be the go-to.

I plan to use a Hobby King LiFe 2S 2100 mAh receiver pack, and I have on hand a Spektrum AR620. I bought some scale 2-1/2 inch wheels I found at my local hobby shop. Keeping my eye peeled for that pilot figure. My next step is to start the cote work. The tail is the only major construction piece, but I've never done the cote work on an entire plane before. I don't expect the wing wires to be difficult, but some technical issues to overcome; still thinking that thru. I have turnbuckles from my old deceased Hangar 9 Sopwith, and some of the brass 2-hoke short straps to attach eyelets on the upper and under triangles, like on the scale plane. Not doing all 8 a side though.

I am off tomorrow too, and the weather forecast improved, winds might allow me to maiden something, and I think I want to take the Eflite Stearman PT-17 out for the first time in a few years  We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Morane Saulnier Type N Planning

Planning what I need for the Morane Saulnier Type N. I have no idea who makes this kit. It's 56" wing tip to wing tip, 3-channel (rudder, elevator and throttle, no ailerons)

Using a Spektrum AR620 I have on a defunct Trex 450.

Very nice and affordable engine at $165, NIB.

Some close up pics:

Beautifully built wing. I plan on setting up some of the scale version wing support wires. He model is designed to use rubber bands to secure the wing, but to make this work I need to fix the wing to the fuse using mechanical mounts and bolts. I need the plastic parts to see how this will be excited. Another issue is how can I tell when the tank is full 

Solid firewall. Once I get the plastic parts (left them at John's), I can see how the engine will fit 

Planning on Ultracote cream color, which for some reason a lot of stores won't have until August. 

Can't wait to get started!

What a wonderful, wonderful, day...

I had today off for an appointment with my eye surgeon who unexpectedly dilated my right eye, because you know, I had a car-full of airplanes I was taking directly to the field... Dammit... Winds were going to get even better and I was off on a sunny day. I. Am. Going. Flying.

But even though I am an idiot, I waited a while and made sure I could see well enough to fly. I had also brought the Ultrastick to maiden today, but not with one eye, no matter how perfect the weather. The field will require me to fly high with that one and I wasn't going to risk losing orientation.

I did get over a dozen great flights in, and even trialed my field charger setup.

Hanging in the gang cover at NH Flying Tigers Field,

Derry, NH

Wanting to tune up my go-to plane and continue to re-train my thumbs, as well as  make sure I can safely fly with one eye, I flew half a dozen packs on the Alpha Sport 450 first. I have flaperons on it, to slow it down on approaches, but it's already really, really floaty. I think I am going to try spoilerons, and see if that will slow it and make it less floaty. I am beginning to see this revived version really wants to be nose heavy.

For the first time in years I took the vintage Eflite PT-19 Cornell out and up today. It's so light I put a Hobby King Orange stabilization system on it, and it makes a tremendous difference. Speedier and snappier than I recall, it flies on rails. Really enjoyed flying it after the first flight jitters, did about 3 packs.

Flight of the Cornell

I came with only four of ten or so 3S packs charged, so I got to trial the lead setup I ran from my hybrids auxiliary battery. I have to leave the engine "on" so the computer can sense when to, and to charge that battery. Worked perfectly!

I had psyched myself up to maiden the Ultrastick 10cc today, and by late afternoon the conditions could not have been better, and only one totally non-judgy pilot was there. I was sooo tempted, but my right eye didn't un-dilate until a couple hours after I got home. I was not adding that crash variable to the test flight. Benched. I am itching to get that plane up.

The even more exciting part of the day was when I got home, I used a suggestion from John Hayes to make it so the throttle closes when throttle cut is turned on. I had gotten the engine easily started on the first try after years of sitting, and tuned to to run superbly, quite easily. I did have to adjust both needles. But the throttle barrel would not close completely, so I had to manually choke the engine to stop it. John showed me which screw to adjust. There is a spring loaded screw on the back port side of the carb (top in the photo). This screw stops the throttle barrel at the desired position, which for me is fully closed. This is the last pic of that screw, because I didn't realize it was spring loaded, and to allow the throttle to close completely, it had to be fully withdrawn. Yep... Shot out of there like a bat out of hell... It went where screws go when the cross the edge of the workbench...  My vintage garage has a stone and dirt floor. 

It's in there somewhere, I think. Couldn't even find it with a magnet, but tons of iron chips and aged metals were everywhere.

Nice idle, nice slam to FOT, smooth mid-range, 

and throttle cut works now! I got an exhaust extender today 

and will install it soon.

Have to work the next 3 days. Sunday's weather is stormy, Monday winds 7 mph but not much gusting after 2p. Hope to maiden the Ultrastick. My rule is only one maiden a day, so the Goldberg Falcon 56 will follow that another day, unless the weather is pristine. A little nervous as I have never flown 3-channel and this field is tight. John says it will be fine!

Flight schedule is to get the Pulse XT60 26cc gasser, the Eflite Stearman (the real balsa one, not the overpriced foamie thing*), and the massive 30cc MX-Bach (MX2 fuse, Sbach wing). I also have the Cosmic Wind (I think a Great Planes 450 size speedster), and my helis airborne. Full summer. Need good weather matching days off.

* I so hate that Eflite went from making affordable beautiful and desired balsa ARFs to selling foamy overpriced crap. This is what kills this hobby. Foamies are fine, l just waaaay overpriced, and just don't fly like the balsa planes. Good small to medium balsa ARFs are hard to find. Muss my Eflite Ultimate, my Pulse XT25 (my all three me favorite plane), and eventually my Cornell and Stearman may expire with no decent replacement.

Vintage Irvine 40, and "Pop Goes The Weasel"!

This is the Irvine 40, a vintage (1980-1990's) British made nitro engine that John gave me on the Goldberg Falcon 40. It hasn't been run in ages, but started on the first try! Adjusted the high, and then had to adjust the low needles. There is a mechanical issue I will need to adjust later: the barrel on the carb doesn't close all the way, so I can't lower the idle and I have to choke the engine to stop it. But wow, as advertised, this motor runs so beautifully! This is my first nitro and first exhaust pressured carb, 

This was a interesting... I installed a fresh OS8 glow plug. On the second run I heard a pop and the engine quit. Turns out it failed! The top popped off and the base remained attached to the engine. This was a top shelf glow plug by OS. Fortunately had some N3 plugs and replaced it.

The top that popped off.

The base still attached to the engine 

I learned what happens when you fill the tank and fuel spills into the muffler and the carb floods.... Once I stopped filling to the top of the tank it's not a problem.

I am liking nitro. Simple no electronic ignition, seems to just run sweet.

Tomorrow weather conditions are expected to be awesome, so after an appointment I plan on flying the Alpha Sport 450, as many times as I can, then, gulp, I want to maiden the Ultrastick 10cc!

Odds and Ends

The igniter didn't arrive until late, was expecting it yesterday, so I didn't get to charge it properly. It allowed me to test the installed glow plug (failed) and that was probably it. Couldn't get the engine to start, and didn't have any time to troubleshoot it. Job for Wed. 

John sent me the factory settings for the Irvine 40, and the high speed needle was way out at several turns; supposed to be about 1.75 turns. I'll also try priming the carb.

The 1/4-28 prop adapter fit nicely, but didn't fit the starter being so small. I went back to the plastic one for now. I'll get a bigger one at some point.

I also realized there was no point to my having installed a fuel dot, since there is no vent like on a gasser where fuel spills out when full. I have to remove the cover to see the tank. So I uninstalled it and put a simple balsa patch over the hole. Such an idiot. 

I ordered the Master Airscrew 11x5 Scimitar for it and the size 64 black rubber bands.

To make CG I had to add 2 oz to the tail, easily done with 8 1/4 oz weights.

I made a simple fueler using a tank connector I had for one of those tanks with two L shape connectors on top and one on a screw on cap I had on a 30cc plane years ago. Bought a Hangar 9 fuel pump that came with a nice filtered clunk, some silicone tubing and a fueling connector (though I used one I bought years ago that looks kike the handle at a gas station).

Here's hoping I get the motor started on Wed.