Sweet Evolution, I LOVE this engine!

Today the Tech Aero Ultra BEC/Remote Ignition Switch arrived. I installed it (could not have been easier, described below). This was all I needed to start the engine.

Factory settings, didn't even check the needle settings. Xoar 12x6 break in prop.  I ran my stock 30:1  (4.3 oz oil to 1 gallon gas) fuel, and it is, like my RCGF engines, still spitting oil all over. Evolution calls for no less than 20:1 (6.4 oz to 1 gallon)! Can you imagine how much oil that would throw? I don't see me increasing to 20:1, warranty or no. I only ran it for about 10 minutes, barely touched the 420cc tank. I did forget not to run full throttle, but next time, when I run a full tank, I will be more careful to stay 1/2 and less.

No priming. Filled the tank (saw no leaks), turned everything on, put the electric starter to the cone and BRRRRRRP! She started within seconds! Ran just fine. I won't do any tuning until I have run a tank or two through her. I don't know that she will need it. I really like having the telemetry with the Spektrum AR8010T telemetry receiver.  My satellite receiver only has one antenna, which I mention as I thought it odd...  I really like that bind button instead of having to plug it. The Evolution 10cc kit came with a lot of extras, including an RPM board that plugs into the RPM plug on the side of the receiver using a satellite plug. That was it. The DX8 required no special setup. Now I have the battery pack voltage and RPMs. I like this telemetry thing and am glad it's built in: Evolution-Specktrum coordination!  Nice engine. Higher pitched sound than I remember from the RCGF. Oil is on the top of the wing, and sprayed all across the left side of the fuse, all because of that muffler. It comes with a silicone diverter tube, but that's just too much hanging out there.  I don't feel like spending the money for a Pitts style muffler.

Look at that natural oil weathering...

This is the Tech Aero Ultra BEC with integrated remote kill switch. Gary Hoffman turned me on to this. It could not be easier to install. It eliminates the need for separate ignition and receiver packs, allowing me to use one 2S LiPO 2550 mAh battery for both. The 3-wire plug goes into an AUX channel on the receiver (I used AUX 3, assigned it in the radio to the MIX/HOLD switch) This provides power from the receiver to the ignition. A set of jumpers sets the voltage sent to the ignition. I have no jumpers, sending 6.6V to the ignition. The 2-wire plugs into the ignition red plug that is usually where an Ignition Battery lead would plug in, or a remote kill switch like the RCXel one I use on all my other gassers, which is half the price. The kill is the AUX switch cutting the power to the ignition. That's it! The LED indicates power on, and comes in a variety of colors. I chose Green. Worked the first try. Flicking the HOLD switch turns it on or off. Mine is set 0 is on, 1 is off.

The only thing I need to do need to do now is try to figure out how to get the cowl on past that muffler and see how much I need to remove for the cylinder head.

Sorry, Joe Nelson... I think I am becoming an Evolution guy.

Progress update on Phoenix Spitfire

The tank is plumbed. I stopped by our LHS, ABCHobbies today, and picked up a gas proof plug, I installed the tank using it, and the plastic pipes that came with the original set. I would prefer metal, but plastic is what they are. I don't think the metal plate that is inside the tank that compacts the rubber stopper is working right, I think it stripped. I may solder a nut on the inside of it to be sure.  You might notice that I had to move the battery, reciever, and the throttle servo to the otherside. Turns out the throttle linkage is on the other side of the engine.

Here's the underside in it's final settup. The throttle control rod is installed.

This is the Evolution 10cc engine installed, with the ignition. Right out of the box you realize that this engine is a thing of quality. Well constructed, solid, clean. The compression on the cylinder is powerfully tight. The aluminum case that holds the ignition is a solid brick of metal. Quality. I am impressed so far. That muffler is HUGE. It's going to come out OVER the wing, I think!

The view from the top.  Again, that muffler! I am waiting for the Tech Aero UltraBEC to arrive, and then I will be able to start the engine.

The fuel dot. Don't think I like it. It sticks out about 5-6 mm, clunky. I like the flat ones. I will probably replace it.

A problem presents itself with placement of the fuel vent. The cowl is large and comes back kinda far on the front of the fuse. I ran the line to the back, just behind the wing screws. I created a flat plate to make it easier to install. Its not as raised as it looks...

All but the powerplant

It sat for a couple of years, but in the last month I have all but completed the Spitfire Redux.

Seen here are the rudder and elevator servos. I have since also installed the throttle servo in the open space there, 

The electronics bay is done, except for the Aero Tech Ultra BEC I ordered this morning.  The fuel tank is just sitting there, unplumbed. I still haven't been able to find out if the black rubber fuel tank stopper that comes with the kit is gas proof. I'd like not to buy another one if it is, but no one seems to  know.  I work tomorrow, but Wed I may run out to the LHS and pick up a Du-Bro gas stopper for the tank.   I have attached the wing so I could set up the reciever, so she looks like a plane.

I think I recall others commenting about how tight the plugs are in Spektrum Recivers these days. These were damn near impossilbe to fit!  It was exhausting trying to force the plug in while not destroying the pins...

I am strongly leaning towards the Evolution 10cc gas enngine, It actually is a dual needle carb, but the needles are on the opposite sides of the carb. It does have a torpedo muffler instead of a Pitts. My LHS has one.... It fits the 44mm on center width of the standard engin mount distance too, so I have already installed the hardpoints. That was nice, not having to customize the firewall and being able to use the pre-installed T-nuts.

I spent the better part of the afternoon trying to get the flaps to match. The servos are just a little off one another. I got them tuned to within 1 degree of each other. I think that's good. I have set the timing to a leisurely 10s full cycle. For some reason the landing gear will not accept a slower than "normal" transition speed. If I set it longer than 0.5s it doesn't respond to the switch. That's fine, its graceful enough.

It will take a few days for the UBEC to get here. And for me to sneak buy the engine...

Tail's on

That took a couple of minutes... but in another brain dead moment I epoxied the vertical before installing the horizontal, but quickly recognized my mistake, removed the vert, quickly prepped the horizontal (the control surfaces already installed) and epoxied it in, then replaced the vertical, all before the 15 min epoxy set. Whew.

I had eariier picked up the Spektrum 8 Channel telemetry reciever at my LHS. I haven't used telemetry before, but it has a built in Reciever Pack Voltage Sensor I think I will need to learn how to use. I think my DX8 is capable of telemety? I guess we'll find out. I also ordered a Pulse 2S 2550 mAh reciever LiPO that I will use with the Aerotech Ultra BEC as both ignition and reciever pack. I think it should allow several long flights.

I am looking at, and expect to try out the Evolution 10cc gas engine. I saw it at my LHS the other day, and its a nice looking engine. Has decent reviews. I noticed its a single needle system, but has an attached pumped carb. Evolution moved away from the muffler pressured tank providing fuel feed. It has the torpedo muffler hanging out there... I am pretty certain I want to give it a shot. It too is a beam mount making for simple installation in an airplane designed, as the Phoenix Spitfire is, for glow. I also bought a 12x8x3 Master Airscrew prop to try on it. I usually fly a 13x8x3 on the 10cc, but wonder if more revs will translate to more thrust? I plan to try both in static thrust comparisons.

I have asked both Phoenix Models and TowerHobbies if the black rubber gasket for the fuel tank is gas safe... In the past I have simply replaced this with one that I know is, but is that necessary?  Not sure how much gas exposure is required to find out?

I read in the TowerHobbies Tech Notes that when using a fuel instead of electric model they suggest epoxying the wings together... I have used packing tape to essentially seal the outside gap, but maybe just epoxying them together is better? I think it will add wing strength? Maybe I will... Maybe I won't...

Sptifre Redux Progress

Making headway these past few days, slow, small steps. I have finished one wing, the left one I think, and today working the right. I work on them upside down, so kinda forget which one is which. I have the right wing landing gear already done and now need to install the aileron and flap.

I set about installing the left wing aileron servo when I notice something is amiss. These control surfaces will be controlled using a Y harness into the reciver: all of them, landing gear, ailerons and flaps. Ergo they are not independently programmable in the transmitter.  The flap servos need to be aligned the same so that they do the same thing in the same direction.  If you look carefully, the servo exits the servo hardpoint on the left on both flap servos as you look at the wing from underneath. Both do. So when one moves forward, the other does as well. This is so when activating the flap switch they deploy or retract together. The aileron servos, however, need to move opposite. When the right goes up, the left goes down, and vice versa. This allows roll. This means that the servo openings need to be opposite, one outside and one inside. Well, keeping the servo opening away from the trailing edga allowing for a longer control arm, the "right wing" one already installed exits outside, so the "left wing" one needs tto exit likewise on the outside.  The servo hardpoints have a pre-cut opening for the servo horn. They are both on the right (upside down) side. 

I backplated the original opening. I would need to trim the patch to allow the servo to seat properly.

I cut a patch and filled in the holes with balsa chips and CA. I later peeled off all the cote and sanded it flat.

Here with the cote peeled, you can see the original patch and the new opening.

Sanded, coted and installed.

Installed the flaps with a little of the usual drama getting the hinges and fit right, but all in all easy.

The wing is meant to be detachable into two parts. I don't find this useful, but it would make getting the servo wires replaced easier, so I just used packing tape to keep them together more snugly. They attach to the fuse with the usual nylon screws and wood posts. In the first build I think I inadvertenly glued them together.

In the end it came out fine! Even the landing gear are symetrical. I managed to get the depth of the wonkified hardpoint of the right wing correct, so no imbalance. Today I may work on the fuse, gettting the horizontal stab, vertical stab/rudder installed, and the remaining servos. I am stopping by ABCHobbies, my LHS, and plan to pick up a 7 or 8 Channel Spektrum reciever, depending on what they have, possibly a switch (I am going single manual swtich for all power with an electronic ignition control switch on the transmitter).  A few errands and we'll see what I am feeling up to.

Left to purchase are the reciever, ultra-BEC/ignitiion switch, manual power switch, fuel dot and vent, RCGF 10cc engine, gyro, reciever/ignition pack. Speaking of which, a You-Tuber commented negtively on my idea of using a LiPO pack installed hard into the fuse, fire risk. This batttery is a low output, low charge use, not more than 1C. Its not a power battery drawing high amps at high C. Its as safe as a power tool with a rechargeable LiPO pack.

More to follow!

I am so disappointed in myself.

And so is kitty...

In my fist build I recognized that the landing gear sit on their hardpoint rather high so that when retracted over half the width of the gear sticks out into the wind under the wing. In retrospect its not that bad, but for two years as I thought about this build I thought I should try to push them down into the wing by chiseling down the hard point. Seems easy, but I have neither the skill nor the tools. So one night I decided to take a hack at it. I ruined it.

I used a Dremel saw to cut a 3mm layer off the top of the hard point on both sides. It immediately became clear I was going to screw the whole thing up. Saw skips aside there is no way for me to measure nor control the depth.

Yikes this is shoddy work.

But the idea worked. The hard points however were no where near level nor equal.

So I dammed up the sides and poured some runny epoxy in thinking it my level out the irregular surface.

It created more problems... jeez, I was not going to spend all this time on the other wing, and I am sure they would come out lopsided. So I abandoned the idea before I made things irrepairable.

I sanded down the epoxy and glued in plywood to bring the hardpoints back to near as I could their original level.

I used epoxy to fill in the gaps and the saw over runs.

I sanded it all down to as level as I could.

And installed the gear and the plastic gear well. I like and prefer the well. I had wanted to leave a smallmlip all the way around the well, but I have never found a way to cleanly cut rhis plastic, so ended up without a lip. It works. So I have so far it seems escaped my stupidity. We will see if the landing gear are symmetric, and then I will call it a win.

RF8 Sim and Spektrum WS1000 Dongle

My Real Flight 8 (RF8) Horizon Hobby edition, and Spektrum WS1000 Dongle arrived the other day, and this morning I installed them. I purchased these as Phoenix RC Flight Sim has gone out of business and wil no longer be updated, and I have always wondered about the Real Flight sim. RF8 has been touted as the best RC Flight sim, and the Spektrum WS1000 Dongle allows wireless and effortless connection of any Spektrum transmitter for use with the RF8 sim.

I am rather disapointed.

They are both easy to install. The dongle has been criticized for having to push way hard on the bind switch on the end of the dongle while inserting the dongle into the USB port, but I had no such issues despite having done 3-4 binds. Install of the software was uneventful. I bound the dongle to my Spektrum DX7s at DSMX on the first try. I had created a new model using my default heli settings including 3-60 deg swash (Phoenix setup uses single servo swash), looking forward to using my own settings on my transmitter, but there is no guidance on what settings need to be on the transmiter.  I went through the Calibrate setup, and noticed that there was a lot of noisy signal crossover bwtween aileron and elevator, something I know is not happening on the transmitter (it flies Phoenix without this crossover noise). It also did not see most of the switches. Ok...

I explored the menus. I selected the default WS1000 Dongle as my controller. The setup us designed for 8 channels, but is supposed to work fine with less channels. The flight surfaces seemed fine and I took the default Timber 1.5M around. I noticed the the flaps are down. My flaps switch wasn't seen in Calibrate so no surprise its not doing anything. The Mix/Hold button on the transmitter causes the ailrons to deflect full right roll, I think flps down, and full throttle! Read the manual for clues, but still no idea how to get switches assigned when not seen by the software. Could not figure out how to get it to work right, so I just use the default U key for flaps. I also noticed the software put in a right roll on take off, but not in level flight, flies perfectly trimmed hands off. When I loop that crossover steps in and I have to roll left to keep the wings level. Yes, trims are zeroed. Annoying. Okay, lets try a heli. This thing is really a pain to fly helis in. The computer defaults to its own DR/Expo and throttle-pitch curves. Hold worked, but FMode freaked it out and it flips and crashes. So, one flight mode, touchy DR/Expo. I read how to disable the software Expo/DR and this made it manageable, but FMode still fails, and it seems to me its ignoring my DR/Expo settings. I tried several times to remap the switches, but its not happening. I played with settings, could not improve things. I bound my DX8 to the sim, and nothing changed. Several times it would not let me finish Calibration by keeping the Finish button gray, as I tried redoing that to make thw swithes and the roll thing stop. Went back to the DX7s on the defaults. Now Hold doesn't work and still one flight mode, even with using my transmitters settings. Everytime I calibrated it would give me a warning when I clikced finish, "You have calibrated only 6 of 8 axes, are ypu shpure you want to finish?" I have no idea... I moved everything Impossibly could, what two axes am I missing?

I went back to the Phoenix 5.5 and its model in my DX7s and it works fine. No crossover noise, all the switches work (all I was really looking for was Flaps), and my helis fly like real life with proper flight modes and Hold. 

To me the Phoenix is hands down the better flight sim.... I have a wireless dongle for Phoenix but it only has 4 channels, so I tend to use the PPM cable plugged into the trainer plug. This is what the RF8-WS1000 seems to offer, really onoy 4 channels; I must be doing something wrong. 

I expected more. I expected my Spektrum transmitters to work flawlessly with minimumfuss with the WS1000 Dongle and the sim. I expected not to have to make any fancy reassignments (turns out it won't let me reassign anything I need). Spektrum disappointed me with theire Alpha 6 stabikization system, and the complexity of programming the AS3X compared with far less costly Hobby King Orange stabilization systems. Now they have disappointed me with the RF8 Horizon Hobby addition and the Spektrum WS1000 Dongle. My Spektrum transmitters and the Spektrum WS1000 Dongle should work together out of the box, and RF8 should be able to play with Spektrum transmitters without fuss. Not much of an ask.

So I got no benefit out of $150 investment in RF8 and theSpektrum WS1000 dongle, over the now defunct Phoenix and its cable. I will try to find aircraft not included, I think I found an archive, and will call Horizon Hobby Customer Service to see if they can tweak my settings to get the DX7s to work properly.