Dem right thar's what you'd call big wheels...

In an effort to make her friendly to fly out of the thick clumps of shit-grass at Joppa Field, and in general, I put 4" Robart wheels on the Stik. Da-yum... 

Gives me now about 1.5" clearance with the 13x8x3 prop. Much better than the 3" ones gave me.

I like big wheels and I cannot lie.

In the scheme of things, not so big...

Hobby King Edge 540 Foamie Build

I started on my new EPP foamie, wierd stuff, but durable for sure. I amusing 3M 4693 Clear adheaive, foam safe and strong, and some CA, which EPP is fine with.

I found out thet the Eflite 10 sized motor I wanted to use, formerly in my Eflite Ultimate wpuld not fit... so I ordered a 300W 480 motor from Headsuprc for $20. That should be plenty of power on 3S.

I have the aircraft built, just need to install the gear and electronics including the servos, I had to trim off the back corners of the horizontal stab/elevator to get them to pass theoguh the fuse, but other than that the build went smoothly. This took no time at all. If I had the motor I could have her built in an afternoon.

Letting the rudder set. I think she is going to be a lot of fun!

Too rich... go figure.

The Boys from SNHFERCC answered my FB post about why my 10cc gasser is so covered with oil. In fact, both 10cc planes. I dont think its a problem with the 30cc. They suggested better oils and that I might be running too rich. I suspected this, but wasn't sure because it seemed to be where the needles neede to be. I know I am way too many turns past factory for them not to be.

Well, the engine on the Big Stik quit in the air the other day and I dead sticked her to a sweet three pointer. I could not get her to start, then she would start, but not run, and then not start. I have been suspicious of the CDI (ignition) since it went skinny dipping, so had bought a new RCGF one from Hobby King (best price). I checked the spark, there was one, but unreliable. The fuel delivery system was clean, and as much of a pain as it was, I even removed the tank and pulled the clunk to make sure. I replaced thw CDI, and not only does she start and run, she runs smoother. I took the needles back to factory and got her running perfectly after a few tries and found I had been running waaaaay too rich. I had been out abour 4 or more turns, and now was at about 2-3 (factory is 1-1/2 or so). She would run well at all ranges, but if I went from half throttle to idle she would occasionally stall. Now that problem is gone too with the spot on tuning. Idle reamis a bit high, but any lower and she will stall (it dips when brought briskly back to idle if she had been running at one setting for a few seconds. A little high idle lets her do this without stalling and doesnt produce much thrust if any).

After tuning I put my hand under the muffler at differnt throttle settings while running... no oil. Sweet.

Can't wait to get her back in the air!

Trex 500 4 Blade Heli Flight Ready

The front tail power take-off gear came in today from Heli-Direct, and I installed it easily. Another fast shipper, helps they are down the road in Boston. I programmed the BeastX for the 4 Blade head, almost entirely spot on, small adjustment for pitch (set it for 11 degrees). I spun her up without the main blades and found a tremendous high frequency tail boom vibration at all speeds. I took the tail blades off, smooth as silk. I checked the blade weights and they were unbalanced by 0.3 gm. Fixed that so they match weight at 4 gm, reinstalled, and now at low speed they were smooth, but at high they vibrated again. This was affecting the gyro. I exchanged the fiberglass ones for plastic ones I have and they were balanced at 4 gm each. Spun her up, smooth as silk through the whole range, tossed the old ones. I had balanced the main blades against the heaviset one and each pair was pretty close, but each pair was quite different from each other. I used electric tape and they all match, but it took a lot of tape...

I am not sure I will keep the wheelie gear. I did lock them so they don't spring (that was very cool, but worsened ground stability).  Much better, but still a little tippy.  I am hoping she flies better than she did the other day...

Fly bar parts departed the aircraft...

The parts I ordered from Medusa Heli and AMainHobbies arrived as if they had been transported like on Star Trek. I ordered them, I turned around and there they were. I LOVE THAT! I think I need to put them on the preferred vendors list.

I installed the torque tube and the front gear power take-off, and the boom stays, then installed the entire assembly into the frame. Blades off I spun it up. Works fine, but there was some vibration, and I stared at the flybar. It was a bit off, tracking kinda weird. I noticed too that there was a slight wobble to the main shaft: it needed replacing. I uninstalled it, and as I pulled the top Jesus bolt, I noticed that a bearing and a collared screw were missing from the flybar cage. This isn't an easy fix... I need two specific parts: a cuffed bearing and a collared screw.

See that big gaping hole? The one on the other side was still there but is loose.

The two parts I need.

I looked online and I can't find the washer. The screw is found in a bag of Trex parts that costs $27, and I only need one screw from the entire pack... That's an expensive screw.  If I can't find this I am not sure what I am going to do...

Trex 500 4 Blade Head Installed

While I am awaiting the power take-off front gear set for the Trex 500 tail, I noticed that the main shaft was a degree out of vertical: bent. Since I needed to replace the main shaft, I decided now was as good a time as any to put the Align 4 blade head on, that I have been holding on to for the past 3 years.  BTW, it was a stripping/stripped front power take-off gear that was causing slow head speeds on the tail allowing it to wander, destabilizing the whole thing. I hope. I really don't want to cough up money for fast digital servos.

Blade grip bearing build.

Installed in the head, top off.

Swash washout on.

Top on. Sucker is held on by 12 screws.

Measuring the control rods to within 0.01 mm, and yet they will still be off.

Swash on, links on, phased by design.

All up.

And installed. When I get the power take-off gear in for the tail I will tune the head tracking mechanically and then reset the BeastX.  I have metal horns for the servos, but just never got around to installing them.

Stik Underside Wing Redux

I needed some more underwing white for contrast, so did up a bit this evening. Added the darts.