The flying monkeys got me...

Helis, Fixed Wing, RC Sailing

AMA 957918

Pirate Kid Skeleton by RadDezigns.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Muahahaha! Frankeheli... oh... still needs blades.

Frankenheli 450ST (Stretched) is built but still awaiting the 360mm main rotor blades. The ESC arrived the other day, I installed it yesterday and programmed it today. I also decided to replace the plastic gear Tower Pro SG90s with EXI D213F digital metal gear servos, and completed that last night. The boom, belt and rudder rod arrived this afternoon, and I installed them today. Just need the blades, and I will recheck the CCPM setup. On my heli these are the only things changed. Motor , ESC, etc are all stock 450 size.

Stock 450 Boom 345mm x 12mm
Stretch 450 Boom 368 mm x 12 mm

Stock 450 Rudder Rod 295mm
Stretch 450 Rudder Rod 330 mm

Stock 450 Bladees 325mm
Strecth 450 Blades 360 mm

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Moved My Workbench!

This is where my bench was and what things looked like yesterday morning.

It was getting crowded. If a heli or airplane didn't fit on my bench it was difficult to work on. I didn't even consider trying to work on my airplane in that space! There was no room for growth either. Where am I going to put my Eflite Stearman PT-17?

So yesterday I decided to move it to the other side of the room...  Off to Lowe's!

And this is what it looks like this afternoon! I moved it to the other side of the room where there is room to expand. I added a small pub table from Target ($80) to work on larger aircraft (though lighting there remains a problem...) and added more hangar space under a longer and sturdier shelf! There is a lot more space.

It took a lot of time to patch the wall where my hangar used to be, then move those hangars (and one additional one) under the newly installed shelf. I had to fill ginormous holes where the screw holders were, refinish the wall then prime it, and roller paint it...

I especially like the 22" x 40" Pub table as it is 36" tall. This allows me to stand at the table. I also have a counter height chair I can pull up (under the clock) if I want to sit.

Its great as this is all in the Man Cave with the 50" plasma I have connected to cable, and the computer I run Phoenix on, that is, when I can get the kids off the XBox 360 and Dead Space 2...


And I left room for my Stearman!









This is what my old corner looks like now, with the kids computer moved from what is now my corner over to the other side.  We put Fenway back up and Luke's collection of helmets on the floor, and the Perseverance poster with Ray Borque is back where it was before it was replaced by my J3 Cub.

Love it!

PS (2/10/11): I solved the lighting problem by bolting a power strip to the side of the table and running a grounded extension under a cover to the outlet. A clamp on task lamp (Architect's, $20 at Office Depot) 75W equivalent CFL bulb lights things up nicely!




Close up of the Hangar

Close up of how I hang the helis on the "Hangar". I use some purple nylon cord from Home Depot and these wall hooks from Lowes. I tie a loop in the cord and run it under the front of the landing skid, and criss-cross them. Looks good, very stable, no stress on the heli. The hooks are just are enough apart to fit the transmitter handle, and are rubber coated. 



Sunday, February 6, 2011

Frankenheli v2.0!

I have new plans for Frankenheli! I am going to stretch him to go from 325mm rotor blades to 360mm blades, which will also require a longer tail boom. More to follow! Parts are on the way, though I continue to have a lot of trouble locating tail rod guides for a 450 class heli... Found a great deal on carbon fiber blades on Dinodirect.com which made this affordable!

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Exceed 40" J3 Cub Build

Today after coming home from work I spent about 2 hours or so putting the Ready-to-Fly (RTF) Exceed 40" 4-channel J3 Cub kit I purchased last week from nitroplanes.com together. It was a lot of fun, and came together pretty quickly.

There were some production issues with the kit I will discuss below, and the instructions were pretty worthless ("Connect wings. Connect tail..."). There was nothing on which screw went where, or how to setup the servos (setting up 90, setting the control rods and their connections to center the control surfaces, how to bind (or that you might even need to), how to use the Y connector for the aileron servos. But I managed with my rocket scientist IQ and my incredibly talent for building (as well as my stunning good looks). Its together, nothing broke, and the spare parts really have no place to go!

I inspected all the parts, and studied the tiny photos in the instructions to get some idea where this was going to go. I don't know if the factory bound the receiver and transmitter, so I did it with the included bind plug. Then I checked the movement and 90 on the rudder and elevator servos. I marked in the fuselage which was which (their rods apparently cross in the fuselage). Then I set to work on the build. I chose to work the tail first, then install the wing, though the instructions say to put the wing on first.


Box detail



Ginormous!  Will have to build this downstairs on the big table.



Un-topped, see what's inside. Nicely packaged.



The parts pieces un-boxed. Not much to it.


Some genius at Exceed put a fighter jet glass cockpit in this Cub!



The bits. 
No explanation for which thingy is going to go where. The Allen wrench isn't going to be used as an Allen wrench, but as a lever to secure the prop. 



There is shrinkwrap over the short springs in the gear struts. Notice one is longer than the other. Underneath both springs are intact, quite short. Must have been being pulled on when it was shrink wrapped to give it room to expand. At least they could have done it evenly... You can see below the spring on the left that the strut itself is bent oddly... It's not stressed, it just was formed that way. Not very good QC on the gear assembly. Pushing the gear struts into place was very hard, especially since I didn't want to crush the fuselage, which is made of a strong specialized Styrofoam like material called EPO.



Close up of the uneven spring shrinkwrap and the oddly shaped gear strut on the left.



Another production issue. None of the control hinges would snap closed on the tail and stay closed. I will use a little heat to melt the plastic holding it closed before flight.  I also had to use a longer screw from my heli kits, the big one on the lower right. This usually could be secured with 2 diagonally opposed screws (not that the instructions tell you that...), but there is a piece of the control surface hard plastic that sticks under the grey tower like thingy, tilting it and making it fairly unsecured. So I used 3 screws. But the problem area that lifted  was that lower one so I had to put the big screw in.  I used all long screws on the tail assembly with their thick wings.


Setting up the control surfaces on the tail. The servos were decently 90'd, but I had to loosen the control rods in the fuselage and set center on the elevator and rudder, then re-secure them. Pretty easy. I didn't spin the hinge on the end of the rod other than to center it cleanly. I had plenty of control rod to play with. I liked the way the connection to the servo is set up (see below) that allowed this easy setup.  Check out the detailed tail wheel. Very springy for greaser landings!



Full up elevator. I have no idea if that is enough, and there is nothing about setting it up in the instructions. But as you can see it centers nicely, and equally deflects up and down. No binding in the servos to speak of, and no binding in any of the linkages. Easy peasy!



Full down elevator.


Close up, rudder linkage. No snap for you!



Now the wing. I did this after the tail, though the instructions said to put the wings on first. It would have been a pain moving the fuselage around working on the tail with the wings attached, so I put it off until I was ready. The servo wires are long (I think longer than stock servo wires... have think of that if I have to order new ones). They pass down a snug trench in the foam to the center. They are then passed down into the fuselage to the servo compartment. Its easy to see this when you put the model together. Checked the servos, wondering why only one worked at a time... Realized, "Hey... this is a four channel heli, I mean, airplane. Channel 5 doesn't do squat. I wonder if the Y harness is for the aileron servos?" Because, once again, nothing in the instructions. Turns out I was right. The servos get the same signal to deflect in the same directn, but are installed mirror image of each other so that the ailerons always move opposite each other. It doesn't matter which is right or left when plugging them in. Mine were correct (right roll input, right aileron up, left down, etc). If they were backwards I could probably reverse the aileron dip switch on the transmitter.


The servo and receiver compartment is open. You can see where I labeled R for rudder servo, E for elevator. The servos and their linkages, the control rods, and the Y harness can all be seen. The battery compartment is just to the right, with the vented cover. Wires are out of the battery compartment just so I could connect and disconnect power more easily during the build; they tuck cleanly inside the fuse. The black box at the top is the receiver. I wasn't sure if the antenna was supposed to be inside or outside the fuselage (fuse), which was long so made me think I did it right. I ran it out the back of the servo compartment and taped it to the fuse.



There was plenty of room for the receiver in the receiver box. I placed a trimmed piece of styrofoam from the shipping box to help hold the receiver and its wires in place so they didn't interfere with the servos. A single plastic wire tie secures the servo wires together as they come out of the servo compartment. the gray wire with the white end piece is the antenna.



Plugged in the aileron servos using the Y harness, once I realized something was amiss without it (only one servo moved until I used the harness. Doesn't matter which plugs into which, just make sure polarity is correct).  Checked 90 on the servos, they were fine. Aileron linkage in the pic. I chose one small screw for the thinner trailing edge and one long screw for the ailerons thicker leading edge. The aileron hinge pieces snapped closed fine. Spun  the hinges to fine tune center for the control surface at center stick.

Screwed the wing on, figured out how to take the spinner off, a little Locktite, prop in what seemed the proper direction, and voila, a Cub is born! Spin up showed I got it all right, lots of power! All the surfaces work well.

A few completed stock pics!







I love the detail on this plane, better than any of the others I saw out there.


Hung in the wall above my bench.Want to enjoy having her before I fly her and break her...



Yes, that's a HeliFreak sticker on my Plank!

Can't wait to fly!!!! Sim, Sim , Sim, then fly next week!

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

CCPM setup on Franky

Got the CCPM setup on the Frankenheli 450. Not sure these servos are the way to go... It will not be long I think before I regret not just replacing them with EXI metal gear digital 9gm.  They are not as consistent between each other and overall, though they are quick and they are strong, and they return to zero sharply.  We'll shall see.

Todays challenge was that the plastic blade grips have an arm on them where the ball attaches. This made the link from the sway bar angle out quite a bit, shortening the effective distance. This made getting everything square difficult. I had to grind them down a bit to lessen the angle. I forgot to take a pre-grind pic, but here you can see that there is still a little angle between the sway bar ball and the grip link as it ascends to the grip ball. Can't grind it down much further without compromising the grip.

Spent a lot of time adjusting the swash to sway bar links to get the grips to zero pitch. You can see everything is pretty lined up.

The swash is level (the K2Heli swash leveler is in place below the swash to ensure that it didn't move as I made adjustments to the linkages).  You can see the other angle in the grip links... nothing I can do about this one.

Everything is square.

These last pics show the pitch range of +10 to 0 to -10. Sometimes I would get -12, but the +10 and zero were very consistent...  I think its these servos as the CCPM is set up clean.




So all I am waiting on is the new ESC I ordered and the very cool canopy I got just for Franky, and then he'll be ready to test hover!


Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Dynam ESC Meltdown on Frakenheli

Today's obstacle was the Dynam ESC. I got the links on and leveled the swash. Following the limited manual, I "programmed" the non-programmable ESC (essentially just turning the Brake off), and decided to test the electric system. I plugged the motor in, turned on the transmitter then throttle hold (TH) and connected the battery. Good so far, ESC responded with the appropriate beeps, gyro intialized. Tested the swash, moved nicely, though the elevator servo lags a little behind the others the swash has full motion and the swash is balanced at full positive and full negative pitch (I think that slow servo is going to be a problem, might switch it out with another one.  That's what you get with $3 servos! I like the metal gear digital EXI servos. May have to order some...  Franky is getting expensive, a few dollars at a time). I made sure the throttle was closed, and turned off TH, and the damn thing spun pretty damn fast for about 3 seconds, stuttered, then stopped. Oh, and it ran backwards...Well., yeah, that wasn't supposed to happen. Is this why people planted their ERazors on the ceiling first time they plugged them in? I reversed two of the motor wires (they were following their designated color-code, which apparently is incorrect).  It worked after that, but intermittently things were a little wacky, like once the swash wouldn't respond, on another start the motor wouldn't run, and every now and then it would stutter start like the first time (nothing is supposed to happen). And I found that the ESC got pretty darn hot, making the soft plastic baseplate even softer; that can happen, but shouldn't be so hot. That was enough for me... I unlashed it from the frame so it can stay cooler and will use it just to set up the CCPM, but its coming off my heli. I ordered a HobbyWing Platinum 40A ESC with 3A/5V BEC, like I have on the ERazor, from HeliDirect. Its inexpensive and I can use my programming card with it.

Setting up the tail and gyro went quite easily. I am thinking about doing Finless Bob White's tail mod, which I did on the EXI, but since everything is set up, I suspect I won't now.

Balancing blades



I posted these pics to answer a question on HeliFreak and thought I would post them here too. These are the new blades for Frankenheli.  Find the blades center of gravity (CG) by rolling it on an rod until it tilts and mark it. Then put them on the balancer, and add electrical tape to the lighter blade on its CG until they balance. Try to use one longer piece rather than a pile of shorter pieces, and make sure it covers the leading edge so it doesn't peel up.