First, the success. I have had problems with the soft metal of the spark plug hole in the cylinder of the RCGF 10cc engines. In the past this required buying a new cylimder head for about $55. This past time I was sure someone made something to fix this sort of thing. What I found was that someone had made an adapter to go from a CM-6to a 1/4-32spark plug, for a huge savings.
I had to drill from about 6mm I think to 8.5mm, then tap it to 10mm.
The adapter is steel, so I won't be stripping it.
Installed, sealed with JB Weld used as a sealed. Cleaned out the cylinder with steel wool and carb cleaner. I set it aside for a week or two as I had other things to do. I wasn't sure this was going to work, even though it was clear people have succeeded to do this.
The good news, the success, is that it works! But this is also the problems. Plural. It wouldn't startat first. Turns out the new spark plug didn't spark. I pulled the older sparky from the other RCGF 10cc engine (more on that later). Then the carb wouldn't give me a decent low, or a decent high, instead of producing the expect 5 lbs of thrust it rarely made 4 lbs. Then the ignition plug wouldn't stay on the spark plug, so I had to work on that. It sounds good in the video, using the 13x8x3, but it just stops. So the thrust is low at WOT, and the idle is too high or it won't accelerate. This isn't an engine issue, its a Walbro carb issue.
But, hey, the adapter works!
I plan to take the carbs apart, clean it, and try again. The other RCGF 10cc engine has a great high end, producing 5 lbs of thrust. But the low is still too high, changing the throttle low end point cause it to stall too low, or run too high, or quit when accelerating. The usual adjustments didn't do what one thinks they should. I tried stepping it up a point at a time and then all of the sudden it wouldn't accelerate. Its either too lean or too rich to run. In addition to cleaning the carb, I will snug everything up for air leaks. Remember, these engines used to work just fine!
I won't give up.
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